First Night First Bite

First Nite First Bite

Imagine our excitement, tickets purchased, carry-ons packed (tip*), itinerary formulated…we were off to Rome, Italy. After a couple of skip hops from Fresno (tip*) to LA to London, we arrived at Rome ‘Fiumicino’ Airport. Thanks to carry on luggage, we quickly exited the plane and merged with the flow of travelers to the

 shuttle (tip*) to Rome. 8 Euros and easy going. We arrived at the Termini Station, the central rail terminal in Rome. Although we were close to our hotel, we were strangers to the district and opted for a taxi. After a brief encounter with the typical hi-rate cabs that hang near the entrance, we crossed to a small hotel who called a city cab (tip*) and within minutes, one arrived. We stayed at Hotel Coliseum, an impeccably clean 3-star hotel (tip*), charming entrance, lobby, living room, restaurant seating for continental breakfast and rooftop terrace. If it lacked any feature it would be double beds. Alas, we lived with twin beds, side by side. From our window, we looked over La Bella Roma. In every direction were tile roofs, church basilicas, steeples and no doubt the roof line of a Palazzo. This was Monti, located between Termini Station and the Coliseum. Without realizing it, we had stumbled onto a really hot neighborhood known to have many great eateries, bars and food stops. 

We arrived late and after checking in, hungrily awaited our first bite. Our concierge recommended Taverna Urbana but when we entered, the chef gave us the cut off sign in Italian hand language. Instead, we trekked to ristorante La Mela d’ Oro which we had passed, live with action, folks chatting on the narrow sidewalk with outside seating. We entered and immediately were greeted by a waiter extending Roman hospitality. Sit, eat. I will help you, you will like it.

The energy was ebullient. Around us were animated guests at white cloth covered tables. On our left was a group of young gorgeous Italians eating pizza and calzone. In a smaller dining room adjacent to our intimate space, a table of 18-20 year olds eating pizza parlor style although many had bowls of spaghetti and after, Limoncello and gelato.

After a quick conversation with our waiter, we selected a menu of antipasti, pasta and pesce, family style (tip*). Rick had Stella Artois, a Belgium beer and I had a well chosen split (tip*) of Chianti recommended by our waiter. Our antipasti came to us on a wood pizza round, encircled with lovely rich hued Prosciutto, a ball of buffalo mozzarella (tip*), a few marinated artichokes. Chiara who you will read about throughout my RomeBlog says the test of good buffalo mozzarella is to cut into it and watch the milk burst from inside and stream out. Our first bite of mozz became the standard for any we would taste. Along with the antipasti we also had a typical Roman insalata. On the bottom of the platter were thinly sliced artichokes topped with Pecorino Romano (tip*) and mounded with Arugula. We would see the trilogy of artichoke, pecorino and arugula, typical of Roman cuisine, on every menu. Next up, our Pasta Course Bucatini Amatriciana, probably the first must have Romanesque pasta, was as the waiter predicted fabulous; served with just the right amount of sauce and grated pecorino Romano. Amatriciana’s big flavor comes from guanciale, pigs cheeks, sautéed and incorporated into chopped canned plum tomatoes (tip*) with onion, seasonings and a slow simmer. 

At our first meal, we learned the true meaning of al dente (tip*), ‘to the bite.’ Pasta is cooked less than American standards. I loved it, but did recognize how close to under done this pasta could be perceived in America. Our final ‘piatti’ or plate was an assortment of simply grilled seafood lightly flavored with garlic, olive oil and lemon. After we shared our ‘piatti’ di pesce, we did not need a morsel more, neither sweet or café. For me, our first typically Roman meal was a perfect first bite our first nite. After a short brisk walk in the winter air, we arrived at our hotel ready for Day 1:  ‘passegiata’ down Via del Corso, the famous shopping district in Rome.

Little travel and food tips I learned along the way.

(tip*) carry-ons, always a tendency to over pack? This time, I followed!

(tip*) from Fresno to LA to London, to add a 3 hour car trip to the airport, too much stress

(tip*) the shuttle to Rome, outside the baggage exit, cross the street and look for the bus stop

(tip*) small hotel who called a city cab, safe and sure bet for a reliable cab

(tip*) 3-star hotel, what’s important: location, cleanliness, food service and modern bath in room 

(tip*) family style, approach every meal by sharing family style for portion and cost control

(tip*) split of Chianti, best quality for the price and two plus glasses of wine

(tip*) good buffalo mozzarella, cut into it and watch the milk burst from inside

(tip*) Pecorino Romano, sheep’s milk cheese from the South of Italy, Rome’s essential cheese

(tip*) canned plum tomatoes from San Marzano, Italian’s use top grade canned tomatoes

(tip*) al dente ‘to the bite,’ pasta is cooked to the point that when you bite, it is firm